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Review: J’anita’s

22 Nov
St. Chuck Duck

St. Chuck Duck

Located at The Rendon Inn, J’anita’s has some of (if not the) best bar food in New Orleans — and bar food is an art, in my opinion. It can’t be too greasy or too filling to measure up.

J’anita’s uses great ingredients to make sandwiches, soups and sides worthy of five-star status. They also have daily specials that are worthy of cult status.

Probably the best special is the Meatloaf Sammich. I can honestly say it’s the best meatloaf and best meatloaf sandwich I’ve ever had. A slab of housemade meatloaf, mozzarella cheese, green pepper and red onions is served on ciabatta bread from Stein’s Deli. Just so you know, it’s the Tuesday special so plan ahead accordingly.

The regular menu offers several standouts. On my first visit I had the Best Fish Sammich Ever!. They’re name for it, not my opinion, but it’s pretty accurate. It’s ciabatta bread with a redfish filet, bacon, grilled onion, feta, lettuce and tomato. Using redfish definitely sends this fish sandwich to another level.

Tater Salad

Tater Salad (Complete with Animal Cracker)

My favorite item overall is the St. Chuck Duck. Holy duck! The St. Chuck Duck is a grilled sourdough with currant tapenade, blue cheese, cheddar cheese, grilled onion, green apples and cabernet-sauteed duck. Did you get all that? It’s a lot, but everything works so well together. This has to be one of the best sandwiches in the city.

Another item worth mentioning is the Not Quite Cuban. It’s pulled pork, bacon, Swiss cheese, pickles and chimichurri sauce on a pressed ciabatta. The pork was smoky and delicious and worked well with all the other not-so-Cuban ingredients.

I would also recommend the Adult Grilled Cheese. It’s loaded with cheddar, pepper jack, feta cheese, bacon, grilled onion and tomato — though I never allow tomatoes on my sandwiches. It’s ooey gooey and bacony and delicious all pressed between two slices of sourdough.

Meatloaf Sammich

Meatloaf Sammich

I do have a complaint about J’Anita’s. Every single time I go, they are out of guacamole. I’m dying to finally try it. One day…

As for the sides, I’ve yet to have one that wasn’t phenomenal. The Tater Salad and Cheese Grits are tied for my favorites. The fries are steak-cut fries which I’ve never been a fan of so I usually don’t go for those. The Cole Slaw is also delicious and not overloaded with mayo. You really can’t go wrong with any of the sides.

The folks at J’Anita’s know what they’re doing when it comes to food. It doesn’t surprise me at all that they recently opened a second location inside Grit’s Bar. While I’ve yet to try that one, the Janita’s at the Rendon Inn has yet to disappoint me. In fact, it’s always exceeded my expectations. Do yourself a favor and venture off the beaten path to try J’Anita’s.

J’Anita’s is located in The Rendon Inn at 4501 Eve Street in the Broadmoor neighborhood. It’s a bar so the hours run pretty late.

 
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Posted by on November 22, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: Domenica

18 Nov
Affettati Misti

Affettati Misti

Full disclosure: I worked at Domenica for a few months in 2010, so if you think that is a conflict of interest, read no further.

First and foremost, Domenica has one of the best happy hours in town. Not many places can match 50% off of pizza, beer and wine (by the glass). You can get a lot of food and drinks for a great price.

Aside from that, the menu rotates very frequently to keep things seasonal. If it’s on the menu, the main must-have is the fried squash blossoms. They’re addictive.

Other top favorites of mine include:

  • Squid Ink Tagliolini — Topped with delicious blue crab and loaded with fresh herbs, it’s light and refreshing and doesn’t fall into the heavy pasta dish category.

  • Gnocchi (changes seasonally) —
    Banana Zuppa Inglese

    Banana Zuppa Inglese

    Domenica has the best gnocchi in town, you can’t go wrong ordering any variety. The best I’ve had to date was the Spinach Gnocchi with Bacon and Brown Butter.

  • Roasted Cauliflower — You order will consist of an entire head of cauliflower that is roasted. What really sends this dish over the top is the whipped goat feta. It has the consistency of hummus, but the pungent taste of goat cheese.

  • Tagliatelle — The rabbit and porcini mushrooms blend very well with this pasta to create a deliciously gamey dish.

  • Affettati Misti — Start with this. It’s basically the deluxe meat and cheese plate with accoutrements. The meats and cheese are awesome as is the bread that accompanies everything. And make sure you get Panna Forte.
    • Squid Ink Tagliolini

    Squid Ink Tagliolini

  • Spicy Lamb Meatball Pizza — All the pizzas are cooked in a wood-burning oven that makes them taste authentically Italian. You can’t really go wrong with any of the pizzas, but my recommendation has the best balance of cheesy, meaty, fresh, tomatoey.

  • White Truffle Risotto — The main reason to order it is for the pancetta croutons. The gnocchi is good, too.

  • Crema Fritta — I’m not sure what this creamy cheese is breaded with, but it gives it a texture unique to any fried cheese I’ve had. The bacon and onion marmellata is also stellar.

If it sounds like I’m suggesting you order a large percentage of the menu, I am. Domenica has consistently improved every time I’ve visited. Head chef Alon Shaya really has a great understanding of this type of Italian cuisine — and that comes through 100% in all of the dishes.

After you’ve indulged in the savory courses, don’t pass up a dessert. Domenica has a very talented pastry chef, Lisa, who puts together unique dishes. In a visit this summer, I had the warm peach cake with salted caramel, blueberries and blueberry-basil sorbetto.Now, while I like all of those ingredients separately, I was curious to see how they worked in the same dish. The result: a heavenly dessert that had just the right amount of salty and sweet.

Pizzoccheri

Pizzoccheri

The Banana Zuppa Inglese is also worth raising your spoon form. The banana cake is extremely moist and the butterscotch mousse make a topping. It’s kind of like a bread pudding/banana pudding mash-up.

Domenica is not a place to miss and is my second favorite Besh restaurant behind the flagship restaurant of August. My only tip would be to skip the lunch menu and go for happy hour and/or dinner. The dinner menu is exponentially better than the lunch menu, but you really can’t go wrong.

Domenica is located in the Roosevelt Hotel at 123 Baronne Street.

 
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Posted by on November 18, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: Cowbell

17 Nov

I think I visited Cowbell for the first time early in 2011. From the first bite, I knew it would be a place I frequented often. So it came as no surprise to me when Cowbell was named The Gambit’s Best New Restaurant (as selected by readers).

Cowbell Burger

Cowbell Burger

The burger craze is in full swing in New Orleans, but out of all the burger joints (old and new), Cowbell is hands down my favorite. The beef is always juicy and cooked perfectly. Add American cheese, bacon, a yard egg and Cowbell’s homemade Mojo sauce and you’ll be transported to burger heaven. The burger with zinfandel, bacon and onion compote can take you there as well — it’s just a different journey.

The Cowbell burger is so good, it makes it hard for me to order anything else off of the menu. Fortunately, I break the habit and order other items from time to time. One of the best I had was a salmon special with black beans and avocado. The waitress (who knows me well by now) recommended and was spot on (as usual). Her name’s Tarani, you should ask for her if/when you go in though she seems to be behind the bar most of the time these days.

Additionally, you can’t go wrong with any of Cowbell’s grilled cheese sandwiches that seem to change daily. The Fried Oyster Salad is also delicious when oysters are in season. The Fish Tacos are good, not great, but will do the trick.

Hand-Cut Fries

Hand-Cut Fries

But admit it, what you really want is the burger. I know, I’m the same way. A lot of my love for the Cowbell burger comes from the meat itself, but the potato bun should be given some of the credit. And if you think I’m crazy for getting the egg, try it yourself, you won’t be disappointed. The yolk from the egg will burst and soak into the potato bun given the burger a whole new flavor profile.

You can even sop up the yolk overflow with the hand-cut fries that are always crisped and seasoned just right. Or you can always substitute (for an extra charge) Cowbell’s kickass Mac and Cheese in place of the fries. Their Mac and Cheese is made with white cheddar and roasted poblano peppers. It’s creamy, has a subtle kick and is filling.

Another thing you won’t want to leave without is the Fresh Made Apple Pie. It’s baked individually into a puff pastry, but it’s worth every bite and for $5 it’s a steal.

Mac and Cheese

Mac and Cheese

Cowbell used to by BYOB, but now that they have a liquor license it’s $5 for the first bottle you bring and $10 for each after that. Most of the drinks they have are of a nice portion and they have one of the best margaritas in town, surprisingly enough.

Cowbell is 100% deserving of winning Gambit’s Best New Restaurant. You may experience a little bit of a wait now that it’s on people’s radar. Service is normally great (like I said, ask for Tarani), but there’s one lady who I would avoid. You’ll know her if you get her. Simply put, she’s just not friendly. Thankfully, the food more than makes up for it. And Brack May, the owner, couldn’t be a nicer guy. Invite him over to your table if he’s around.

Cowbell is located at the intersection of Oak St. and River Rd. at 8801 Oak St. Hour are Tues. through Sun. 11:30 a.m to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

 
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Posted by on November 17, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: Kim Son

11 Nov
Spring Rolls

Spring Rolls

If you live in New Orleans, it’s possible you’ve never heard of Kim Son. It flies under the radar as far as Vietnamese places go and it’s located off the beaten culinary path. If you do know about Kim Son, you know it’s one of the best go-to places for Vietnamese and features one of New Orleans’ most expansive menus. Even Cheesecake Factory would be put to shame by the number of offerings.

I only stumbled across Kim Son because one night Pho Tau Bay and Nine Roses happened to be closed. Since then, it’s become my number one spot for Vietnamese. As a bonus, they also have a ton of Chinese dishes if you don’t want Vietnamese.

Pho with Medium Rare Beef Flank

Pho with Medium Rare Beef Flank

Kim Son has the best pho I’ve ever had, some of the best tofu I’ve ever had, and the salt baked items (shrimp, scallops, lobster, tofu and squid) are out of this world.

I can never go without having something salt baked. Usually, it’s the shrimp, but when I feel like splurging, I go for the lobster. The seafood itself is baked (though I think it’s fried) to an amazing crispy texture. Plus, the sauteed onions with ground black pepper and chili flake send things over the top.

Another favorite of mine is the Pho with Medium Rare Beef Flanks. The beef comes out medium rare, but cooks in the hot broth releasing even more juice into the broth and taking in the broth flavors at the same time. That’s my favorite version, but you can’t go wrong with any of them.

Salt Baked Shrimp

Salt Baked Shrimp

The make-your-own beef spring rolls make a great app to share at the table. You customize your spring rolls by adding in cucumber, cilantro, lettuce, carrots and other garnishes.

You also can’t go wrong with any of the tofu dishes. Try the tofu curry in the clay pot or the tofu with eggplant. Kim Son calls it “bean cake,” but rest assured, it’s tofu.

I haven’t had time to make it through the whole menu (that would probably take years), but everything I’ve ever had has been outstanding. It’s consistently fresh, never greasy and always tasty. Other Vietnamese places have great dishes, but none of them can match Kim Son’s overall effort.

Kim Son is located 349 Whitney Ave. in Gretna on the Westbank and is open Mon. through Sat. from 11 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.

 
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Posted by on November 11, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: Slice

10 Nov
Slice's Caesar Salad

Slice's Caesar Salad

Slice is hands down my favorite quick pizza place in New Orleans. Both locations are consistent, but I’m partial to the Uptown Magazine Street location since it’s a few blocks from home. Plus, you can cross the street for Pinkberry after you’re done with pizza.

My go-to order starts with a salad. I vary up my salad selection between the Caesar, the Mesclun and the Spinach. The Caesar salad is a solid choice as far as Caesar salads go. The Spinach salad is also good, but my favorite is the Mesclun. The Mesclun salad is mixed greens, chevre goat cheese, walnuts and fresh local berries. All of the elements combined have a nice balance of sweet, pungent, creamy, crunchy and leafy.

Bacon Basil Garlic Slice

Bacon Basil Garlic Slice

Sadly, I’ve become a little set in my ways when it comes to ordering Slice’s pizza. I usually go for two slices and one is always the Bacon, Basil and Garlic. I love bacon. I love basil. I love garlic. So this slice speaks to my heart and taste buds. The fact that it’s a piece of white pie is even better.

Another one of my favorites is the Prosciutto, Gorgonzola and Arugula. It’s kind of like a delicious salad on a slice of pizza. The prosciutto is always fresh and the gorgonzola has a nice bite to it.

Slice also has some pretty good special slices. On my last visit, it was Buffalo Chicken which consisted of hot sauce, gorgonzola, buffalo chicken, red onion and celery. This is one of my favorite specials that Slice does.

Another great special is the Alligator Sausage special. I haven’t seen it in a while, but it’s definitely worth ordering if you happen to catch it.

Buffalo Chicken Slice

Buffalo Chicken Slice

I also often make my own slices. So far, my favorite combo has been pineapple, prosciutto and jalapeño. It’s sweet heat with the meatiness of the prosciutto. Slice has tons of toppings to choose from so the combos are nearly infinite.

Slice also has great price points. You can easily get a slice, a small salad and a drink for about $10. That’s a great deal.

I highly recommend Slice for a quick bite and high-quality pizza for a low price.

 
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Posted by on November 10, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: La Thai Uptown

04 Nov
Paht Thai

Paht Thai at La Thai

There was a time when I wasn’t a big fan of La Thai. I’ve had to reevaluate my opinion and I’m happy to say, I’ve changed my mind. You can now count me as a fan.

Like any place, some dishes are better than others, but what won me over was the Thai-Coon. A delicious dish with jumbo shrimp, Lousiana crawfish, vegetables and fried eggplant in a spicy garlic basil sauce over jasmine rice. It’s a filling dish, but the eggplant is fried to perfection and the seafood, veggies and sauce all work in nearly perfect harmony. It’s hands down my favorite dish at the place.

I’m also a big fan of the Crispy Calamari. La Thai has breading and frying down and their version of calamari is made with one of the best sweet chili sauces you’ll find. A friend even said it was “the best calamari she’s ever had.” At this point, I’m inclined to agree with her, at least when it comes to fried calamari.

Crispy Calamari

Crispy Calamari at La Thai

Two other appetizers I enjoy quite a bit are the Skewerless Chicken Sate and Mama’s Stuffed Chicken Wings. The wings are some of the best wings I’ve had in quite a while. I’ve never really seen New Orleans as a big wings city, but La Thai has a dish that proves to be the exception to that.

La Thai also has two salads that stand out. The first is the Naked Shrimp Salad with mango, tri-colored peppers and mango-peanut dressing. It’s fruity, crunchy and full of zest and flavor. The second is the Pecan-Crusted Oyster Salad with lump crabmeat, pecans, grapes and wasabi lime aioli. This is probably the best salad on the menu. The oysters are fried perfectly and actually work well with the sweetness of the grapes.

The noodle and rice dishes are La Thai’s bread and butter and they have some great dishes in this section of the menu. The Paht Thai is always a popular choice, but I’ve always found it just a tad bit underwhelming compared to the Paht Woon Sen and the Thai-Coon. Did I mention I’m in love with the Thai-Coon?

Cashew Chicken

Cashew Chicken at La Thai

You’ll also have a great choice of curries when visiting. All are delicious and very in spiciness.

On my last visit, I went during lunch and ordered the Cashew Chicken. They definitely didn’t skimp on the cashews (a big plus in my book) and it was a great blend of sweet, saucy, spicy and salty. I wouldn’t hesitate to order it again.

Aside from the food, the decor is impeccable and the service is always excellent. Diana and Merlin Chauvin (chefs/owners) are two of the nicest people on the New Orleans restaurant scene. They don’t treat anyone at La Thai like a stranger. They’ve collaborated to make La Thai a great neighborhood joint for all of New Orleans.

Paht Thai and Calamari images courtesy of Amy Jett Photography.

 
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Posted by on November 4, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: Stein’s Market and Deli

28 Oct
Stein's Market and Deli

Stein's Market and Deli

Stein’s Market and Deli is one of New Orleans’ true foodie gems. Located on Magazine, Stein’s (as the locals call it) serves some of the best deli sandwiches in the city and features an eclectic offering of specialty meats and cheeses, beers, soft drinks, desserts and candy that are otherwise hard to find.

Stein’s offers daily specials (closed Mondays) that are all worth trying. My favorite? The Friday special: Fancy Schmancy Cuban. Stein’s loads its Cuban with ham, pork, gruyere, spicy brown mustard and some of their homemade pickles. It’s perfection pressed between two slices of ciabatta.

My main go-to sandwich on other days of the week is the Fernando. The Fernando is prosciutto, pesto and mozzarella on ciabatta. So simple, so delicious.

I also really enjoy the Southern Animal Foundation. As you can guess, vegetarians should steer clear of this one. The S.A.F. is turkey, cheese, bacon, avocado and cucumber on wheat. Aside from eating the meat, it’s relatively healthy so it’s somewhat guilt-free.

Stein's Daily Special Board

Stein's Daily Special Board

Stein’s also has one of the best Cobb salads in New Orleans. For some reason, Cobb salads in New Orleans are almost non-existent, but thankfully, Stein’s has a version that satisfies.

Aside from the lunch offerings, Stein’s is one of the best places to get bagels in an otherwise beignet city. The bagels at Stein’s come from Davidovich Bakery in New York City, the bakery that claims to make the “original NYC bagel.” I can’t really argue with their claim.

I highly recommend ordering a breakfast bagel sandwich from Stein’s if you’re in the area. You can also order some lunch sandwiches on a bagel. I often order lox and cream cheese with avocado on a bagel and it’s delicious. Though once a lady told me I was weird for ordering that. Some people need to explore more.

If you aren’t hungry, you can also stop by to stock up on some unique beers from around the world. Stein’s has one of the best bottled beer selections in the city and regularly hosts beer classes some weeknights. You can always just pick up a six pack to go though.

Stein's Beer

Some of the Beer Choices at Stein's

If you live in New Orleans and haven’t visited Stein’s or if you’re planning to visit New Orleans at some point, you owe it to yourself to add Stein’s to your list of places to check out. You really can’t go wrong with all the high-quality ingredients they use. You may experience a little bit of a wait and the seating area is slim, but it’s 100% worth it.

Stein’s Market and Deli is located at 2207 Magazine Street. The hours are Tues.-Fri. 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sat.-Sun. from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

All photos courtesy of Amy Jett Photography.

 
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Posted by on October 28, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Review: East Side Kings (Austin)

21 Oct
East Side Kings Food Truck

East Side Kings Food Truck

So I learned the hard way that most food trucks in Austin are dark on Mondays. Thankfully, East Side King’s trucks still operate on Mondays so the food conquest wasn’t a failure. East Side King has three locations, but we settled on visiting the East Side Kings at Liberty Bar.

The space is located in a pretty quiet area of Austin, but it was still pretty busy for a Monday night. After looking at the menu, I ordered Poor Qui’s Buns, Thai Chicken Karaage and Derek’s Favorite Chicken Buns.

Something I love about food truck (and East Side King is no exception) is the fact that things are cooked to order. East Side King incorporates a lot of herbs into the dishes and all were fresh and crisp.

Poor Qui's Bun

Poor Qui's Bun

The first thing I tried were the Poor Qui’s Buns — roasted pork belly in steamed buns, Hoisin sauce, cucumber kimchi and green onion. Delicious. The pork belly was crackly and blended perfectly with the crunch and acidity of the cucumber kimchi. The bun was light and fluffy and didn’t distract from the overall taste of all the elements.

Next I sampled the Thai Chicken Karaage — deep fried chicken thigh with sweet and spicy sauce, fresh basil, cilantro, mint, onion and jalapeno. I’m willing to go on record and state that thighs are the most underrated cut of chicken. They have so much flavor and East Side King really brought out the flavor with the mix of herbs, jalapeno and the sauce. It was crispy, hot, cool and refreshing. The perfect dish for a warm night.

Thai Chicken Karaage

Thai Chicken Karaage

This dish also paired really well with my Shiner Bock. So don’t forget about the right beer.

Finally, I tried the Derek’s Favorite Chicken Buns. Once again, the chicken thigh pieces were crisped to perfect. This bun was composed of deep-fried chicken thigh, Thai flavored spicy mayo, fresh basil, cilantro, mint, onion and jalapeno. This turned out to be my favorite dish. The pillowy soft bun mixed with the herbs and crispy chicken provided a very textured, yet simple dish.

I’m a big fan of Asian cuisine, and East Side King can hold it’s own as a serious Asian dining experience — albeit outside of the standard brick and mortar. It’s no wonder Anthony Bourdain stopped by on his most recent visit to Austin.

Derek's Favorite Chicken Buns

Derek's Favorite Chicken Buns

The brains behind East Side King consist of former chefs from Uchi, one of Austin’s top Asian restaurants. They’re really onto something here as they’re now up to three truck — each with a unique menu. They’re also smart to open on Monday nights, they pretty much have a Monday night monopoly.

I’ll have to wait to continue my food truck conquests on my next visit to Austin. Just not on a Monday.

East Side King trucks operate outside of Liberty Bar, The Grackle and Shangri-La in Austin. Hours vary so visit the East Side King site for more info.

 
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Posted by on October 21, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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Movie Review: Melancholia

20 Oct
Kirsten Dunst as bride Justine in Melancholia

Kirsten Dunst as bride Justine in Melancholia

Lars von Trier’s Melancholia is really two films in one. Broken up into two acts, Melancholia follows the lives of sisters Justine (played by Kirsten Dunst) and Claire (Charlotte Gainsbourg) during a life-altering and life-ending event. After opening with gorgeous cinematography and visual effects, the film begins its first act — Justine’s wedding day.

The first act revolves around Dunst’s character, Justine, who is set to marry Alexander Skarsgard’s Michael. While the scenes started out cheery and happy, it soon becomes apparent that Justine has underlying issues.

In a wedding night that seems to never end, Justine manages to lose just about everything she values mainly due to the fact that she can’t accept her future. She seems to be running away from the bright future fate has laid out in front of her. The question “Am I ready to settle down?” is slowly, but surely answered on a night full of drama, laughs and emotions.

Kirsten Dunst in Lars von Trier's Melancholia

Kirsten Dunst in Lars von Trier's Melancholia

It becomes quite clear that Justine feels suffocated by all the things going on in her life until she reaches a breaking point. Dunst’s portrayal of Justine is one of her finest roles to date. I wish I could say the same for Skarsgard, but unfortunately, his character is practically neutered. It’s a drastic change from his character on True Blood, but he doesn’t quite nail it so it feels forced.

Gainsbourg as Justine’s sister Claire and Kiefer Sutherland as brother-in-law John both turn in fantastic performances in Act 1. Overall, I enjoyed the first act better than the second act.

Act 2 focuses on the threat of planet Melancholia colliding with Earth. This act is centered around Claire as she cares for her family and Justine with a potential doomsday scenario looming.

In this act, Justine begins as a crumpled depressed mess who Claire ends up taking in. Is Justine depressed because of the impending doom or because of the new direction her life has taken?

As Melancholia plummets closer to Earth, Justine begins to accept the potential apocalyptic result and ceases running. Now it’s Claire’s turn to live scared and running. The second act places relationships under a microscope while examining how such a significant event can either unite or divide.

Kirsten Dunst and Charlotte Gainsbourg play sisters in Melancholia

Kirsten Dunst and Charlotte Gainsbourg play sisters in Melancholia

The great performances continue in Act 2, but mainly because the number of characters is severely diminished giving each actor a more meaty role. I also enjoyed the juxtaposition of roles for Claire and Justine. This act is a true slow burn that is painful yet enjoyable to watch.

Overall, Melancholia is a beautifully rich and deep film. Dunst turns in one of her best performances yet though I’m not sure it will be good enough come awards season. Melancholia is definitely worth seeing on the big screen.

Photos courtesy of Christian Geisnes.

 
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Posted by on October 20, 2011 in Watchin'

 

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Review: Lambert’s (Austin)

19 Oct
Crispy Wild Boar Ribs

Crispy Wild Boar Ribs

There was no way in hell I was going to take a trip to Texas and not leave without having barbecue. Brisket is one of my favorite cuts of beef so my tastebuds were set on having some great brisket. Based on my Austin friend’s recommendation, we headed to Lambert’s in downtown Austin so I could cure my barbecue/brisket craving.

After ordering drinks, we started with a charcuterie plate (not pictured because I forgot to take a pic until we were nearly finished devouring it) that came with two local cheeses and two from elsewhere as well as some nice meats. All of the cheese and meat was overshadowed by the foie gras pot de creme. Wow! That little pot was full of flavor and I really didn’t want to share it. I would have liked one of those as an entree.

A close second on the charcuterie plate was the local honeycomb. The honey was great and paired well with every meat and ever cheese we sampled. But did I mention the foie gras pot de creme? I did? Okay, moving on.

Natural Beef Brisket

Natural Beef Brisket

Not surprisingly, I ordered the Natural Beef Brisket in a coffee and brown sugar rub with pickled esabeche. The brisket was good, especially the fattier pieces. However, I really didn’t get much of the coffee and brown sugar effect. What made the brisket great was Lambert’s house barbecue sauce.

I should point out that I’m much more of Texas barbecue sauce fan than I am for a Memphis (vinegar-based) sauce. I enjoy the thick sauciness of Texas sauces. That said, Lambert’s was not as thick as some sauces I’ve had and it definitely had a spicy heat component that’s absent from most Texas sauces. A+ on the sauce.

I also tried the Crispy Wild Boar Ribs and the Natural Pulled Pork. The ribs were tasty thanks to the sauce, but in my opinion, weren’t crispy. The pulled pork was very well done and had a different sauce than the house sauce that was equally delicious.

Now for the sides. I’m convinced the art of a good barbecue should be evenly divided 50-50 between meats and sides. Well, Lambert’s has some of the best barbecue sides I’ve ever had.

We ordered four for the table: Brussels Sprouts in Brown Butter with Bacon, Baked Mac and 3 Cheeses, Smoked Bacon Braised Collard Greens and Green Chili Cheese Grits.

I tried the grits first. I’m very very very picky about grits. If the base is water, forget it. Thankfully, Lambert’s used some form of dairy with a load of cheese. All of that was balanced very well by the heat from the green chilis. I would have this grits again and again. I may try and replicate the recipe.

Natural Pulled Pork

Natural Pulled Pork

The Brussels Sprouts were also a hit thanks to the bacon and brown butter of course. The Collard Greens didn’t quite live up to the Brussels Sprouts, but were still tasty.

And I still haven’t forgotten about the Mac and 3 Cheese. It was bubbly, crispy on the top and creamy on the inside. A total cheesy success all the way around. The pasta wasn’t too firm and wasn’t too chewy. I was ready to lick the bowl, but I’m afraid I would have come to blows with the rest of the table.

We ended the night with Lambert’s Bread Pudding that ranks as one of the top three I’ve ever had. Which is saying a lot given the number of bread puddings I’ve had while living in New Orleans (I would rank only Mr. B’s and Boucherie’s bread puddings higher).

While Lambert’s is a refined barbecue experience, the place can totally hold its own with some of the best barbecue joints in Texas. The meats were solid, the sides were phenomenal and the service was exemplary. They also have a great happy hour on Mondays where all appetizers are half off. If I lived in Austin, I would make this my Monday night regular place to eat.

Lambert’s is located at 401 West 2nd Street in downtown Austin. Lambert’s is open for lunch daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner is available Sun. through Wed. from 5 to 10 p.m. and on Fri. and Sat. from 5 to 11 p.m. Reservations are recommended.

 
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Posted by on October 19, 2011 in Eatin'

 

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